Stourbridge Branch Canal Inland waterways of Stourbridge and the surrounding area.An examination, byGraham Fisher M.B.E.Numerous websites these days carry a section marked FAQs, or Frequently Asked Questions. This is nothing new, and for many years now one of the most frequently asked questions I have encountered is ‘what can you find so interesting about the cut?’ This is entirely understandable since, to the initiated, the sight of a stretch of water drifting serenely through the landscape may not at first appear remotely inspirational. However, the answer to this particular FAQ is emphatically ‘a great deal, if one just scratches below the surface’. The truth is, our wonderful inland waterways offer so much to such help satisfy such a wide range of interests and aspirations, from nature lovers to boaters, fishermen to industrial archeologists, cyclists to environmentalists, hydropower specialists to fibre optic technologists and much more. Even just somewhere to enjoy a pleasant stroll with the dog. And, here’s one to test Poirot’s little grey cells, how is it possible to traverse the country from the east coast to the depths of Wales and from the far north of England to the south coast, without once negotiating so much as a minor road? Canal towpath, that’s how. So, in this occasional series of features, I propose to expand upon our waterways, in particular those that fall within the gambit of Amblecote History Society, and to build up a portrait of the many facets that are inextricably linked to our local canal in terms of its history, its present and its future. Do join me on the journey, you may be pleasantly surprised. But first, to establish the big picture, I will commence with an overview as to how our inland waterways system developed. Inland Waterways and ‘Canal Mania’, a guide to how it all started .... Prior to the industrial revolution transport had been mostly confined to packhorses and wagons travelling along ancient dirt tracks that were dustbowls in summer or quagmires in winter, and unreliable river navigations that despite rudimentary modifications were still at the mercy of the fluctuating weather for much of the year. It had not always been thus; two thousand years ago the Romans created a network of roads that were a vital component in their imposition of efficiency, justice and military might. When the Empire eventually succumbed, a besieged Rome recalled her troops leaving the indigenous population to their own devices amidst chaotic scenes described by the Venerable Bede. ‘When the Romans departed the British abandoned their cities and fled in disorder. They were driven from their homes by Picts and Scots and sought to avoid starvation by robbery and violence, their internal anarchy adding to the miseries inflicted on them by others.’ After the Romans had finally retreated their legacy of roads, like their fine cities, decayed. Almost in desperation the Church offered enticements to anyone who would repair the rutted tracks and at the reformation an obligation was placed upon parishes to maintain roads between market towns. But at the dawn of the industrial age neither rutted track nor unreliable river could be called upon to play its part. A system of mass transportation was required as a matter of urgency to feed the demands of the new order. It had to be reliable, it had to be efficient and it had to be cheap. But above all it had to be on a huge scale. And thus the scene was set as, with an aura of the faintly unconventional that seems so often to define archetypical British eccentricity, one of the most seismic transport revolutions the world has ever witnessed was heralded by the romantic misfortunes of a sickly young man ... The canal age arrives...Regarded as the inspiration for a frenetic period of waterways construction now referred to as ‘Canal Mania’ (though for some the point is a contentious one as the Sankey Navigation was serving collieries at Parr and Haydock some four years earlier) the totally man-made Bridgewater Canal owes its existence in no small measure to a broken romance when, following the collapse of his engagement arrangements with Lady Hamilton, the disconsolate Francis Egerton 3rd Duke of Bridgewater turned his attentions from problems of the heart to problems of transporting coal from his father’s mines at Worsley near Manchester.
By 1765 the canal extended into the city, dramatically slashing the cost of coal. Immense capital outlay was quickly countered by high profitability and various branches were added including one that afforded access to the Manchester Ship Canal. The success of the Bridgewater, though a key element in Canal Mania, did not per se immediately spark a rash of canal construction for reasons both pragmatic and logistical. Routes had to be surveyed, Acts of Parliament passed and finance raised. In many cases opposition from local landowners was also intense and so it was some years before the impetus swung into an unstoppable movement, with the peak of Canal Mania considered by many to be around the early 1790s. Developments in the MidlandsEarly canals were built by a contour method in which the waterway wherever possible followed the natural level of the land. This method kept navigational structures such as locks, tunnels and aqueducts to a minimum but did mean that the overall distance travelled was greater than necessary, with corresponding additional costs. When in a later era Thomas Telford adopted his brash approach to taking the canal in as direct a route as possible the overall distances travelled were reduced dramatically, though such a simplistic comparison is not entirely proper since the earlier construction was of a time when large centres of population were not so common and the convoluted route allowed outlying settlements access to the new transport medium which they otherwise would not have enjoyed. In the Midlands, a major powerhouse in the industrial revolution was the area bounded by Birmingham and the Black Country. It was said that if an item wasn’t made in this area it wasn’t made anywhere in the world. Fortunes in the burgeoning iron-making industry were based on coal, iron ore, limestone (used to remove impurities from the ore) and fireclay. All were to be found in profusion around these parts and so it is small wonder that the area became criss-crossed with canals. From James Brindley’s original line of 1772 connecting Birmingham with Aldersley - the first section opened in 1769 bringing Wednesbury coal into the city - the Birmingham Canal Navigations (BCN) evolved into a conglomeration of waterways on three different levels; the Wolverhampton (473 feet above sea level), the Telford (453 feet) and the Walsall level (408 feet). The Wolverhampton level alone extends from Smethwick to Wolverhampton, Birchills and Ogley and includes the Dudley Canal from Tipton to Parkhead, the truncated Wednesbury Oak Loop, the abandoned Lord Hays Branch, the truncated Cannock Extension Canal and the Daw (Doe) End and Anglesey Branches. The highest navigable point is now Titford Pools (511 feet) though the abandoned Essington Branch was some twenty feet higher. Water supply to such levels was always fraught and when this particular branch lost its mining activity the canal quickly followed suit, a pattern that was to be widely repeated. Mining subsidence was also a constant problem throughout much of the network. The BCN is veritably littered with features that even from a contemporary standpoint are hugely impressive, none more so than Dudley Tunnel which is a striking 3,172 yards long. The similarly inspiring Netherton Tunnel is 3,027 yards long and opened 80 years later in 1858 to relieve congestion at the Dudley Tunnel, the claustrophobic bore of which had become a serious bottleneck. Netherton Tunnel was the last to be built in the canal age and was of cavernous dimensions allowing boats to pass, with twin towpaths and lighting for 24-hour operations. The advent of rail led to the demise of many canals but the proximity between rail and canal around the BCN ensured profitable trading long after it had ceased elsewhere. By the 1970s the lack of trade and general abandonment had shaved some 60 miles off the network leaving 114 miles or so remaining today. And yes ’tis true, this is more than Venice. Take your pick on how the Black Country, that intriguingly nebulous and wonderfully esoteric corner of South Staffordshire of which her sons and daughters wax lyrical, acquired its name. One anecdote describes how Queen Victoria, her sensitivities offended by the pall of the indigenous industry, ordered the blinds of her carriage lowered as she passed through by train. Then there is the more plausible tale of the visitor from foreign climes who, seeing the smoke from furnaces hanging heavily across the Stour Valley, described to how he had ‘never seen a country so black’. Alternately one may go with the suggestion that the term actually existed well before the industrial revolution, with outcrops of coal scarring the landscape and colouring the soil. It is indeed true that whilst many areas have spawned thriving coal industries on seams no thicker than a few feet, the famous 10-yard seam of black gold running through Staffordshire has left an indelible mark on the very fabric of the area from which it derived not only its name but its culture and heritage, both of which are extant in abundance to this day. It is equally true that during the heyday of canal construction there was a need for a connection to access the plentiful mineral resources, which included iron ore, limestone, fireclay and sand lying to the west of the region. All these were either singly or in combination essential in the production of many things, not least glassmaking. It was in accessing these vital components that the entrepreneurs of the day turned to waterways. As early as 1667 the visionary engineer Andrew Yarranton (1619-1684) had, under authority of an Act of 1662, carried out substantive works towards exploiting these resources by making the diminutive River Stour navigable between Stourbridge and Stourport. Alas, his considerable achievement of transporting coal to Kidderminster and beyond was short lived and around 1670 the works were destroyed by massive floods. No appreciable efforts were undertaken for a further century until the formation of the Company of the Proprietors of the Stourbridge Navigation. One of the promoters was the ironmaster Thomas Foley (1616-1677) whose estate was in Great Witley, west of Stourport, but whose strong Stourbridge connections are commemorated to this day in the liberal association of his name on civic landmarks. Others included the Earl of Stamford and landowner John Hodgetts, through whose land the canal would pass. An artificial waterway was proposed to run a little over three miles from Stourton on the Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal to the town of Stourbridge. Following six years of construction the S&W would eventually open throughout in May 1772, but it was in 1766, whilst James Brindley was still surveying its southern section, that the Stourbridge team commissioned him to survey their line and produce a route plan. Having done so, the proposals faltered; the success of the Stourbridge Canal depended upon the S&W being completed and it was John, 2nd Viscount Dudley & Ward (1725-1788) assumed his title in 1774. His quest for improved communications saw him supply capital for the development of local turnpikes throughout the Black Country and he advanced in total some £6200, an enormous sum at the time, to various local turnpike trusts. Even so, their limited application for the movement of heavy materials except over short distances, coupled with existing canals being either of little direct value or too far from the Dudley estates, exercised him considerably. A visionary par excellence and owner of much mineral-imbued land he almost immediately joined the Stourbridge Navigation Company. A modified route that included the link to Stourbridge but also extended to Black Delph was drawn up by Robert Whitworth, who had worked with Brindley on the S&W. However, in 1775 it was decided at a public meeting in Stourbridge there should now also be a line through to Dudley. A bill was submitted but was withdrawn in the face of fierce opposition from mine owners and rival canal operators in Birmingham. Almost to a man they opposed the new canal on the grounds that the petitioners would 'lose all prospect of reaping any fruit of their labour.' Doubtless they justifiably feared the loss of markets along the Severn since the junction of the S&W with the Stourbridge Canal at Stourton lay 13 miles closer to Stourport than that of its junction with the Birmingham Canal at Aldersley which was connected by 1772. ![]() To counter opposition Lord Dudley, whose various local backers not surprisingly included glassmakers, cleverly decided to divide the opposition by splitting the proposals whilst maintaining the same line. The ruse succeeded and separate Acts for the Stourbridge and Dudley Canals were obtained in 1776. This unusual arrangement meant that two separate companies built what amounted to the same continuum of canal and effectively operated as one unit, with the enterprise subsequently deriving far more revenue from its branches than from the main cut to Stourbridge. The Stourbridge Canal as we know it today opened throughout three years later in 1779. The Dudley line through to Parkhead opened in the same year; this had proved easier to build due to its shorter length and fewer locks, inferring that progress on the Stourbridge had been comparatively rapid. And thus the line as originally planned from Stourton to Stourbridge, with its Bonded Warehouse and Canal Company Offices situated at the latter’s ter minus, is nowadays seen merely as a branch off the actual main line as built, which continues through the ‘Stourbridge 16’ locks and on towards The Delph. Maps predating the canal clearly indicate the existence of glassworks for which the canal was evidently constructed to accommodate; in view of the involvement of glass proprietors in its construction this is hardly surprising. Conversely there were others that came after the canal was built to take advantage of the new transport medium.The Stourbridge Canal rises through four locks from its junction with the Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal at Stourton Junction, just off the junction of the A458 Bridgnorth Road with the A449 at a spot that despite the demolition of its eponymous roadhouse will forever be known as Stewponey. Despite its proximity to the conurbation, this section is arguably amongst the prettiest in the country and meanders through what is to this day still verdant countryside, closely following the line of the adjacent River Stour. After passing over a small but distinguished two-arched aqueduct, it veers off to the right along the Town Arm to Stourbridge whilst the Main Line rises from Wordsley Junction through the ‘Stourbridge 16’ Locks. ![]() ![]() ![]() The lock numbers decrease as they climb upwards. Just beyond lock 13 the canal passes the defunct White House Glassworks and under the aptly named Glasshouse Bridge to the far from defunct Red House Glass Cone. A few yards further along the canal the Albert Glassworks lay virtually next door to Red House. Immediately prior to Glasshouse Bridge, opposite White House, on the towpath side, the large wall bordering the towpath denotes Richardson’s Wordsley Flint Glassworks. The site is now occupied by light engineering units. Directly opposite to Red House Glass Cone a small footbridge bridge carries the towpath over the former entrance to Joburn’s Basin. In the 19th century it served an iron and brass foundry. This in turn became a corn and seed mill, latterly a garden centre, and is now occupied by modern housing. High quality silver sand was brought to the glassworks here and hereabouts from Leighton Buzzard and elsewhere via the Grand Union Canal and Birmingham Canal Navigations. This is thought by some to be the origin of the naming of Silver End off Brettell Lane although a more credible explanation derives from the fate of Moor Lane Glassworks when, in 1823 and at a time of poor trade, the owner declared bankruptcy. The following year the site was leased for 14 years to Joseph Stevens and his brother in law Joseph Silvers - hence the connection - at an annual rent of £80 in an enterprise that was to be the forerunner of Stevens & Will iams, latterly Royal Brierley Crystal. The Dock is an intriguing area notable for its wooden transshipment warehouse. Variously known as Bantock’s Shed after a local carrier Thomas Bantock and Dadford’s Shed after the canal’s engineer Thomas Dadford Jnr, it has enjoyed a chequered history. (The shed is also known locally as the 'Black Sheds' Ed.). Damaged by arson attacks and v Between locks 4 and 5 lies a boundary fault below which the coal seams were too deep for cost-effective extraction. The practical ramification of this is the complete absence of mining subsidence downstream, which is certainly not the At the top of the 16 locks the Fens Branch continues straight ahead to Fens Pools that were constructed as reservoirs. Whilst still acting as feeders the pools nowadays are a designated nature reserve and enjoy the distinction of forming the largest area of open fresh water in the Borough of Dudley. The adjoining Stourbridge Extension Canal was part of a separate company’s unsuccessful initiative to link the Stourbridge with the Birmingham Canal. Quickly superseded by the railway that mirrored it for much of its length it was destined to reach less than two miles further on where it served collieries and brickworks before terminating in a basin near to Oak Farm in Kingswinford, passing en route through what is now the Pensnett Trading Estate. It currently extends little further than the site of the former stop lock near to where the Bromley Branch
Meanwhile, back on the Stourbridge Canal, times were prosperous throughout much of the 19th century. Profitable trade was accompanied by relatively little maintenance and, especially when compared with its subsidence-prone neighbours, it suffered remarkably little slippage. The deleterious effects of competition from first rail, then road, was exacerbated by the inexorable closure of the mines and by the time of Vesting Day on 1st January 1948, when the waterways were nationalised and control was ‘vested’ back to Government, little commercial traffic remained. The fate of many waterways depended largely on how they had performed in the war. Those towards the east, which were deemed to have contributed little to the war effort, were excluded from nationalisation. Largely in view of its own commercial success the Stourbridge Canal was duly nationalised. Under the stewardship of the British Transport Commission there The renaissance of inland waterways as a leisure amenity is now a well-documented tale but clear signs that the tide of abandonment had turned were in evidence by May 1967 when the Main Line was reopened in a culmination of a three-year endeavour by the Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal Society (SWCS) with the assistance of numerous other groups and the co-operation of the British Waterways Board (BWB). This somewhat more enlightened assemblage arose from dissolution of the Docks and Inland Waterways Executive of the British Transport Commission in 1953 that was replaced by a Board of Management. A decade later in 1963 The British Transport Commission was itself replaced by the British Waterways Board (BWB), the forerunner of today’s British Waterways (BW) that came into being in 1988 following reorganization. The initiative of co-operation between BWB and volunteers was at that time in its infancy and this restoration is believed to the first occasion that professional BWB staff and unremunerated volunteers worked together. Undoubtedly it was the model for subsequent restoration schemes and the Stourbridge example established a pattern that continues to this day. Times certainly change. From our contemporary and more health-conscious perspective it is difficult to envisage how back in 1967 the festivities were sponsored by a well-known tobacco company. But it would be doubly difficult for anyone below middle age to recall the sorry state that our canals in general, and the Stourbridge Canal in particular, had been permitted - indeed actively encouraged by some - to degenerate. There was even talk of the moribund Town Arm being infilled for a road between Stourbridge and Wordsley. The list of those who were instrumental in reversing this trend reads like a Who’s Who of Restoration Pioneers but central to these must be the stalwarts of the now-infamous ‘Battle of Stourbridge Cut’ of five years earlier. The tale of their ‘defiant dragline’ breaking the mud to permit access to an isolated Town Arm is now the stuff of legend and the moment has been widely acclaimed as the catalyst for the burgeoning nation-wide restoration movement that followed. The intervening years have witnessed changes to the Stourbridge Canal that would have been simply unimaginable to its promoters. The Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal Society, formed in 1959, begat Stourbridge Navigation Trust. Formed under the auspices of SWCS but now an independent organisation in its own right, SNT has in turn perpetuated the famous name of Fellows, Morton & Clayton Ltd, which operates its increasingly popular boat excursions from outside the restored Bonded Warehouse. This building, itself a derelict hulk at the eleventh hour of demolition just a couple of generations ago, was saved by SWCS and has since proved a highly successful venue for all manner of meetings and community functions. The recipient of a Civic Trust Award, it was granted Grade 2 listed status in 1980. Stourbridge Locks, together with important artifacts such as Dadford’s Shed, have been transformed from a motley array of derelict eyesores to a busy through-route accessing the famous Delph Locks Conservation Area, the gargantuan Merry Hill Shopping Centre and thence virtually all points on the waterways compass. Yet remember this is merely around the immediate area of Stourbridge; just extrapolate these accomplishments across the entire network and one can begin to appreciate the sheer transforming power that was unleashed from this very spot by those visionary campaigners of the 1960s. Waterways transport and glass
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